Do You Know About Labrador ?

What Do You Know About Labrador ?

Is a stable, loyal, gentle and exclusively reliable and good dog with little children. It could be used for hunt and for special training (leaders for blind people, invalid helpers, life-saving dogs, police dogs, personal security, sport activity and etc.). During the years the Labradors are used for every kind of work. They bring everything anytime. The dogs from this breed are work alcoholics and they need to do different kind of works, which we set, without a break. And yet we must not forget that Labradors are selected to be in position anytime.

The contemporary Labrador has grown up exclusively as a sport breed. Its phenomenal abilities have led to its using for other things – Labradors are one of the dogs with the strongest sense and are widely used in all kinds of life-saving jobs, also and for chasing drugs and explosives. Its good temperament and its magnificent abilities for training made them model helpers for invalids and the most successful leader dogs for blind people in the world. Labradors are great company for the children and for adults and their well-deserved popularity keeps growing every year.

Labrador’s reputation as a loving pet is completely justified, but the masters of this loving and full of energy animal has to be prepared to deal with its temperamental, sometimes unruly nature, as they satisfy its huge need for movement and lot’s of exercises. Originally the breed it created for work on the outside and that’s why it needs a physically and mental activity. With its sociable and predisposing temper, Labrador has all qualities for being the perfect dog. But these characteristics have to be raised in it – from the moment, when you take the dog; you must pay attention to it, to meet it with new situations and to learn it to have a good attitude. Well-raised dog is a pleasure for you and for the others.

Dogs need not only physical exercises but and mental tension. Labrador’s master must use the unique abilities of these dogs – to play with them (including games with objects). These games bring joy to the animal, and could be used in help of the training, to make the relationship between the leader and the dog stronger, and just for a rest. Labrador would bring with joy any object to its master – it acts on instinct. This breed is thought of being the most trainable, followed by the German shepherd dog and some other breeds.

Selected to work under the human leadership, Labrador has the spirit of collaboration and it is very responsive to commands, demonstrating exclusively loyalty and obedience. As we said, it is famous for being very playful dog – sociable and curious from its birth, and usually using every chance to contact with other dogs. You can’t count on this breed to protect your house barking. Friendly disposed Labrador sooner will show the house to the thieves. But it could tumble down an obtrusive person, because it has the habit to jump on everyone for welcome. This dog has the tendency to stay stolid in case of odd sounds, encirclement or people. This is connected with its development as a hunt dog with adapted, worriless and curious nature.

Everything About The Labrador Retriever

The origins of the Labrador are rather obscure but two types of dog were known in Newfoundland – a large heavy dog used to pull boats into land and a lighter, smoother coated variety used by fisherman to retrieve game and fish. They were both known as Newfoundland dogs and it was not until 1812 that the larger breed was known as Newfoundlands, and the smaller as the lesser Newfoundland or Labrador. In 1814 Labradors were taken to England where, in a book ‘Instructions to Young Sportsmen’, the breed was described as ‘by far the best for every kind of shooting’.

What Are the Personality of The Labrador Retriever:

An adaptable and devoted companion with a kindly nature, Labradors easily adopt the role of children’s playmate or elderly persons pet. The keenness to learn and willingness to please make the Labrador an ideal choice as a guide dog for the blind. The puppies are placed with a family for the first 12 months of their life and then return to the Guide Dog School for an intensive training course. After graduation the dog is matched with a compatible owner and devotes itself to the safety of its owner.

The Labrador Retriever Trainability:

The excellent sense of smell possessed by Labradors, coupled with their eagerness and agility, makes them suitable as bomb detection or drug sniffer dogs. These dogs are trained to detect certain substances and, by their behaviour, alert their handlers. To the dog it is all one big game of ‘hide and seek’, although in the case of bomb detection dogs they save many lives.

What Are The Physical characteristics Of The Labrador Retriever:

The tail is very thick at the base, of medium length and gradually tapering to the tip, densely coated with short, thick hair giving a characteristic ‘otter’ tail. The head is broad with medium sized brown eyes expressing intelligence and good temper and ears hanging close to the head.

How Manay Colours Do The Labrador Retriever Have?

Although the Labrador is commonly referred to as the ‘golden’ Labrador, the colour is officially called ‘yellow’ and ranges from light cream through to a red fox shade. Other permissible colours are black, liver or chocolate.

What Type Of 60Coat does The Labrador Retriever have?

The coat is a distinctive feature – short, dense without wave or feathering and with a fairly hard feel and a weather resistant undercoat.

What Are The The Labrador Retriever Height:

A strongly built dog with a broad and deep chest, the normal height is 56 – 57 cm for males, and 54 – 56 cm for females.

What Is The Lifespan Of The Labrador Retriever?

Life Span of Labrador is 12 – 14 years but some times it depend on care might go upto 18 also

Everything You Should Know About The Labrador Retriever

Retrievers were originally bred as hunting dogs. Their job was to sit by the hunter and wait until game was shot and then retrieve it on command. This often meant swimming through cold water or running through dense brush. Labs were also taught not to damage the game upon returning it to their master.

Knowing what type of tasks the dogs were bred to perform assists us in analyzing what type of behaviour to expect from a breed. In the case of labs, they are fairly insensitive to touch. They readily leap into cold water and sit patiently in the cold in order to please their master. Physically tough dogs, they are very tolerant with children and respond well to training techniques that engage their strong desire to please.

They are also sound insensitive so that the loud bang of a hunter’s gun won’t disturb them. Loud noise, such as that from children, does not tend to bother labs and yelling at them will generally not get a response.

Working retrievers had no use for aggression since handling birds roughly or growling at other hunters is not required. Labs are friendly dogs that will gladly hunt with anyone, or, in other words, play fetch with anyone who is willing. They are great around guests in your home, your children’s friends and they tend to see everyone as a friend or potential playmate.

All retrievers and labs are of course no exception, love to have items in their mouth. They are extremely oral and this is not to be confused with aggression: this is in their breeding, it is instinctual. Chewing on sticks, toys, balls, socks and so on is dog heaven for them. If you are considering owning a lab, you must tech them what to put in their mouths and what not. Otherwise your furniture and belongings may suffer.

Labrador retrievers are, in general, fantastic dogs. Great with children, great family dogs, fun loving, energetic and beautiful, it’s little wonder that they are number one in the American Kennel Clubs ranking. However, this extreme popularity can lead to a wide range in quality of dogs so be very careful in selecting your breeder. Some labs could be fearful and aggressive so make certain to observe your pup before you decide on your choice.

Labs are very enthusiastic, lively and smart. They respond well to training and should be trained to engage their brains and control their exuberance. Their sheer excitement often causes them to jump up, steal your socks, pull on lead, or counter surf the kitchen but this can be corrected through proper training, supervision and exercise. Labs need a lot of exercise and this is easy because they love doing everything – running, swimming, fetching, romping, or just plain walking. Most of all, they just love being with you.

The coloring of a lab can run from almost white to pale cream to brown and black. They require minimal grooming and shed moderately. Their coats are silky and smooth and dry quickly when wet. They will reach a height of approximately two feet and weigh, on average, from 55 to 80 pounds although some can weigh much more.

Common health concerns for this breed include hip dysplasia, cataracts, retinal atrophy and bloat. Labs have low bite potential and interact with other pets quite well. When selecting a lab for family use you should avoid dogs that have been bred strictly for field use. These field dogs have absolutely incredible energy which is difficult to harness in a domestic setting.

How To Protect Your Cat And Dogs In Winter ?

Protecting Your Cats and Dogs in Winter In the summer we worry about keeping our pets cool, come winter and it’s time to think about keeping them warm and dry. Here are some simple ways you can protect your pets this winter.

The easiest, safest way to keep your pets warm is to keep them indoors, especially overnight. Older dogs, puppies, and dogs with certain diseases such as diabetes, heart and kidney problems should never be kept outside. All cats should remain indoors.

Some dogs tolerate cold weather better than others. Some dogs can take cold better than others, such as Alaskan Malamutes and Huskies. Short -haired and toy dogs will have a particularly hard time in the cold.

Snow and ice can pose problems for dogs. Snow can get packed between dog’s toes and freeze, causing pain and discomfort. To avoid this problem, keep the hair between the toes cut short.

Keeping nails cut short also helps. Shorter nails allow for better traction. If a dog is slipping on ice it tends to splay the toes, which causes more snow to pack between them.

If you are walking your dog on sidewalks or streets that have been salted to melt ice, be sure to wash his paws when you return. The salt can be drying and irritating to the paws.

If a dog must be kept outside during the day, be sure to provide proper shelter. An oversized dog house or shed will not retain enough heat. The house should be just large enough for the dog to stand up and turn around.

Do not use blankets for bedding. These will just get wet and freeze. Clean straw or hay is preferable.

Position the house on the south or east side of the house if possible, out of the wind. Raising it up off the ground helps, too.

Remember that the dog’s water may freeze if left outside. Putting the water in a deep container helps keep it from freezing. Also plastic is a better choice in this case, as metal conducts the cold quicker. Dark colored dishes will absorb more heat than lighter ones, slowing the freezing action. Be sure to break up any ice on the surface of the water each morning.

Are you aware of the dangers of antifreeze?

Ethylene glycol based antifreeze is deadly to cats and dogs! Be sure to keep containers tightly capped and out of reach. Wipe up any spills immediately. For the safest bet, use one of the alternative products made with propylene glycol instead.

Outdoor cats will look for warm spots to curl up. Some cats have learned that cars and trucks offer nice warm nooks. They will crawl up into the wheel-wells or engine compartments. Banging on the hood before you get in your car is a good idea in case you have a stowaway.

Indoors, pets will often curl up next to heaters or under wood stoves. Watch out for tails and fur getting too close to heating elements! Make sure your cat does not overheat.

Some extra vigilance may be needed if you will have a Christmas tree. Anchoring the tree to the wall is a good precaution. Tinsel can be dangerous to pets if ingested, so either don’t use it, or place it well out of reach of cats and dogs. Start hanging decorations a few feet from the bottom of the tree.

If you have a puppy, don’t leave gifts unattended under the tree. Don’t use string or dangling ribbons on packages if you have a cat. Cover the base of the tree to keep animals from drinking the water.

There is debate over the toxicity of Poinsettias. Even if they are not deadly, the sap is an irritant and will probably make the animal sick. Holly and mistletoe berries are poisonous; so keep them out of reach of pets.

Why The Labrador Retriever Is Number One Popularity ?

The Labrador Retriever is presently at the top of the list in popularity in the American Kennel Club. Unfortunately popularity in a dog breed often leads to problems with over breeding and this often leads to an over population of the dog in the humane shelters across the country. This is the case right now with the Labrador Retriever. Often people do not recognize that when they get a puppy, it is going to grow up. Also people seem to believe that a hunting dog can be left outside and kenneled and yet not all hunting dogs make good “kennel dogs” and the Labrador Retriever is one of those.

This is a breed that is a close relative of the Newfoundland, it is a people oriented dog with a natural desire to be with people. When kept outdoors it can become quite unmanageable since it will jump enthusiastically on people and bark at the sight of people and generally make trouble out of boredom and anxiety.

The Labrador Retriever was originally called the “Lesser Newfoundland”, being from the island of Labrador (right next door to Newfoundland) and being black, but smaller than the Newfoundland dog. The dog performed a number of tasks for the fishermen of Labrador, pulling in boats and fishing nets and a variety of water related activities. Labrador Retrievers can be fairly good sized dogs, ranging in height from 23-26 inches and in weight from 60-110 pounds. They should have plenty of bone but should not appear bulky. Labs are a water breed, they carry a water resistant double coat that is dense and often it is difficult to get them “wet to the skin” if bathing them.

They are excellent swimmers and should have a good square appearance to the muzzle, with plenty of depth and strength of jaw, for they should be capable of carrying a Canada goose back to shore when retrieving. The North Atlantic seas are cold and fierce, the dog is well equipped to swim in such an environment, for it has a deep chest and plenty of power in the front shoulders. Labs can be black, yellow, or brown, (called “chocolate”).

A Labrador is an all around hunting dog also and will retrieve on both land and water. A well trained Lab at a hunting trial is a totally awe inspiring sight, they will “mark” the dummy and swim over and through many obstacles to retrieve “to hand” with great skill. Hunters who have a well trained dog will often find that they end up with more birds than they actually shot, since the Lab will bring back any bird that is downed.

The temperament of the Labrador is outgoing, steady, enthusiastic and extremely people oriented. This is a dog that should never show aggression towards people and seldom shows any aggression towards other dogs or animals in general. It is a breed that possesses great intelligence and a playful personality, its propensity to retrieve anything that is thrown for it makes it a delightful dog for children to play with. Lab puppies are not hard headed and learn quickly, if trained when they are young. They are very obedient for they are dogs that are anxious to please their owners.

Housebreaking Your Labrador Retriever Dog

Any health care links and information in this article should NOT to replace a veterinarian visit or advice; please take your Lab to a vet immediately at any sign of odd behavior, such as aggression, or any symptoms of illness or injury.

Bringing your Lab puppy home is one of the most exciting moments. There is a new bundle of furry joy that enters your family and settles in for a long and nurturing bond between dog and human. However, this joy can quickly disperse as the role of housebreaking comes along and you start pulling your hair out. Okay, so you may not pull your hair out but housebreaking can be quite frustrating for a number of people.

First, the new Lab owner must realize that not all dogs are the same and not all Labrador Retrievers are the same. Once pup may be easily trained by the time it is 12 weeks old, while another pup could be 5 months old before being fully housebroken. It does not matter if your new puppy is an English (Show) Lab or an American (Field) Lab or even if you have two Labs from the same bloodline or litter. Each puppy is different and must be trained according to what fits for that particular pup.

What Is housebreaking And Labrador Is Trained?

Housebreaking is the act of getting your pup to go to the bathroom where you want it to go. Usually this is outside of the home but some owners of smaller breed dogs choose to litter train their pups instead. For Labrador Retrievers, litter training is not an option so we must assume that the Lab will be trained to pee and poop outside of the home.

A pup is not considered housebroken the first time it does its business outside. The pup must not have an accident within the house for 12 consecutive weeks. This means that if the pup goes for 11 weeks before it has an accident in the house, it is back to beginning and the 12-week countdown must start all over again.

What Are The Importance of Schedules For Your Labrador Retrievers?

Schedules are one of the most important aspects of housebreaking your pup. Whether the pup is 8-weeks old and coming into its first home or 5-years old and finding its new forever home, Labrador Retrievers do very well on schedules. The first thing any new or expecting family should do is create a bathroom schedule for their new dog.

Puppies around 8-16 weeks old will need to go to the bathroom every 2 hours. Therefore, you should schedule bathroom breaks every couple of hours, even if your pup does not show signs of having to go to the bathroom. If you keep to a 2-hour schedule, the pup will catch on quickly and start to begin to hold from going to the bathroom indoors until that scheduled potty break. As the pup gets older, this 2-hour schedule can be extended an hour at a time, until the pup can finally wait up to 8 hours or more. Please note that this is a gradual process and will take several weeks to months before being able to wait that long as a puppy’s bladder is underdeveloped when young and cannot physically wait that long without having the urge.

Older Labs that come into a new home will do very well with a schedule. This lets the dog know what to expect from the family and makes the dog feel more secure. Anticipation and nervousness is part of being introduced to a new family and a schedule makes them feel more secure in their surroundings and their place within the family. You will need to start off slow with the pup and allow for gradual changes as well. However, an older dog will most likely handle incremental time changes better.

How Stressed Is Your Labrador Retriever Dog?

Do you leave your home and return only to find that your normally well behaved Lab has dug a hole straight through your couch or chewed the cushions off each of your new dining room chairs? If so, then welcome to the world of canine separation anxiety!

Labrador Retrievers are rated as one of the most common breeds for separation anxiety as they are companionship dogs and do not like being left alone for very long. Separation Anxiety in dogs is a neurological distress response to the separation of a person to whom the dog is attached, a high degree of uncertainty of an outcome, or the probability of punishment. Of course, brain chemistry plays a huge role in the development and progression of this disorder but we are going to toss our chemistry books aside and get down to the basics of how you can help your pup with this disorder.

Most articles and veterinarian findings state that separation anxiety is found primarily in younger or older dogs. The middle-aged pup is often left out of the equation but shouldn’t be as there are a number of signs and triggers that even those Labs in this age groups can exhibit.

What Are The Signs Of Canine Separation In Dogs?

The signs of canine separation anxiety include, but are not limited to:

Distress Vocalization – howling, barking, and whining
Inappropriate Elimination – urination, defecation
Destructive Behavior – chewing, digging, scratching walls/doors
Anorexia
Depression or Inactivity
Psychosomatic consequences – excessive licking of hair coat, pacing, circling
Hyperattachment – excessive greeting behavior, constant pestering of owner
Hypersalivation
Escape Behavior – breaking through windows and doors

What Triggers Labrador Retriever And Other Dogs

A trigger is something that happens in the life of the Labrador Retriever, which causes the onset of separation anxiety. Although each Lab is different and has different triggers due to personality traits, routines, or living conditions, most triggers include:

Marriage
New House
New Baby
Changes in Schedule
Owner going back to work
Children going back to school
Improper Nutrition
Allergies
Loss of a family member

How To Diagnosis Labrador Has Anxiety?

As each Lab is different, it is often difficult to reach a conclusive diagnosis of separation anxiety. For this reason, a thorough history and physical exam are needed to definitively diagnose separation anxiety and rule out other medical behavioral differential diagnoses. Once your veterinarian has confirmed that your Labrador Retriever does indeed have canine separation anxiety, there are a few treatment options available to help your pup.

What Are The Treatment?

The treatment of separation anxiety in dogs may involve both medical and behavioral intervention. Treatment is necessary as dogs with separation are truly suffering and can do real harm to themselves. With that said, there are three types of treatment available: medical, natural, and training.

Medical Treatment For Labrador ?

Depending on the extent of the Labrador Retriever’s separation anxiety, your veterinarian may recommend medical treatment. Usually medical treatment is reserved for those dogs with a more severe case of separation anxiety and may include the use of Clomicalm. This drug decreases the level of fear and anxiety, while increasing the receptivity to behavioral modification.

Valium is also used by some veterinarians, but most do not like it. There are better choices than Valium with longer lasting effects that will allow the dog to continue living a more normal life. As with any drugs, please ask your vet about the side effects prior to giving medication to your pup.

What Are Natural Treatment for Labrador ?

Although medical treatment may be effective, there are many side effects to be concerned about; therefore many owners chose a more natural approach to treatment. Herbal remedies such as Tranquility Blend by Animals’ Apawthecary can be purchased at many natural pet food stores. This product claims to calm dogs, cats, and other animals during acute episodes of anxiety without diminishing alertness.

Another natural treatment that is designed specifically for canine separation anxiety is called Comfort Zone Canine Behavior Modification Plug-in by Farnam Pet Products. It contains a jar of Dog Appeasing Pheromone (DAP) and electric diffuser that plugs into the wall outlet. This product claims to completely stop stress-related behavior as it releases a pheromone possessed by lactating female dogs.

What Is Training Treatment

Also known as behavioral modification, the training treatment can allow dogs to feel more in control and independent while allowing them to have goals to attain. This not only allows for mental stimulation but also desensitizing and counter-conditioning. Many Labs suffering with separation anxiety can be trained and cured, but it takes persistence and consistence on behalf of the dog owner. Forms of training may include:

Crate Training – crating the dog and covering the crate with a sheet in a secure area of the house to alleviate stress.
Short Leaves – leave the house in short intervals and increase the length of time, slowly, as needed to help the dog become accustomed to being left alone for periods of time. Leave the television or music playing as if you are home to distract the pup.
Obedience Training – give the pup a job to do in a group setting to build confidence and security while being socialized.

The success of each training technique depends on each Labrador Retriever. The owner needs to remain consistent with the training and provide rewards for the pup as well. Give your Lab something special reserved for those times when you leave, such as a Kong stuffed with some goodies. This will downplay your departure and give the pup something else to concentrate on. If done correctly, training will not only be a treatment for separation anxiety but also a prevention for future anxiety attacks.

What is Fallout For Labrador ?

Unfortunately, many Lab owners do not understand the importance of proper diagnosis and treatment for canine separation anxiety. If not taken seriously and a solution found, possible fallout may occur, such as:

Owner being evicted from the residence due to noise disturbance
Time and money to make repairs to the home
Emotional stress on leaving the dog alone
Possible euthanasia or abandonment of the pup

The purpose of this article is to help ensure that fall out does not occur. Lab owners must remember that scolding your Labrador Retriever only makes the problem worse. It is not the pup’s fault that it has separation anxiety. Your pup needs a patient, loving and willing caregiver to take the necessary steps to help it achieve a full recovery and not be destroyed or abandoned for something that is out of its control. It may be a long process for some dogs, but it will be well worth the effort to help your Labrador Retriever become healthy and happy.

Labrador Retrievers & Dog Food

So you have this new beautiful Labrador Retriever puppy or full grown rescue Lab and you have no clue what to feed it. Does that sound familiar? It should. There are are currently over a hundred dog foods in the U.S. market alone; deciding which one to choose can make any new dog owner’s head spin. You want what’s best for your pup but you don’t want to break your bank account while trying to give Fido to the best.

Dog Breeds and Dog Food

There is a direct link between the dog breed you have and the dog food it needs. Smaller breeds tend to live a longer life given that they are not prone to many of the health problems larger breed dogs face such as hip dysplasia, OCD, poor eye sight, and so on. The large breed dogs, such as Labrador Retrievers, need vital nutrients and minerals during all stages of their lives, but especially during the newborn to 18-month old growth stage.

To ensure that breeds such as Labrador’s get what they need from the food they eat, a number of companies have come out with Large Breed and Puppy Large Breed dog foods. These foods may contain higher levels of Glucosamine (for healthy bones & joints), lower calories (to maintain weight), higher protein (for strong muscles and ligaments), and additional vitamins and minerals to sustain a healthy immune system.

Labrador Puppies vs. Older Dogs

It goes without saying that puppies and older dogs are much different and therefore have different needs. Puppies are in constant growth and need foods with high quality proteins listed as the first ingredient of the dog food you are going to use. Chicken meal and Lamb meal are two top choices for most Lab owners as the word “meal” just means that it is a dry form of the product. They will also need more calories then older dogs but do keep in mind that the more you feed, the more waste. So, you will want to choose a food that does not require high quantities but more quality nutrients per serving.

Older dogs have varying requirements. Some Labs will become overweight with age due to poor feeding or lack of exercise. for this reason, it is best to speak with your rescue group volunteer about the specifics of that particular dog’s dietary needs prior to welcoming it home.

What Allergies Does Labrador Retrievers Have ?

Over the course of the years we have had Labrador Retrievers and spoken with other Lab owners, it has become more obvious that a number of Labradors have sensitive allergies to certain types of food. It is not uncommon for a Lab owner to go through many foods before finally finding a food that both meets the pup’s dietary needs as well as provides relief from the dog’s allergies. It’s best to avoid foods that contain chicken by-products as this is usually a main culprit of Labrador Retriever food allergies. Most lower quality food will list chicken or other animal by-products as one of their top 10 ingredients. If this is the case, leave the bag on the shelf and keeping moving.

Crate Training Your Labrador Dog

Once seen as cruel and inhumane, crate training is starting to gain popularity. The crate can be a useful tool when training a new puppy or adult dog. If used correctly, the crate cane be a place of sanctuary an security when needed. Not all Labs will respond to the crate in the same way. Some use them willingly, while others detest them and will do everything they can to avoid or break free from the crate – even at the risk of injuring themselves.

Usually, the latter have problems with the crate due to negative past experiences, such as being left in a small confined space for long periods of time or having the crate used as a punishment. Care must be taken to encourage your Lab to view the crate as its den, retreat, or sanctuary. This is why it is important to understand the proper use of crate training for both puppies and adult Labs. The more knowledgeable you are with this device, the more likely that your Lab will love its crate!

Advantages of Using Crate Training

Through the use of crate training:

Enjoy peace of mind when leaving your dog alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, safe, and not developing bad habits.
You can housebreak your pet more quickly by using the close confinement to motivate your pet to wait until taken outside, since canines naturally avoid soiling their den.
Yes you can travel with your pet without risk of the the dog getting loose and becoming lost or interfering with safe driving.
Your dog can enjoy the security and privacy of den of his own to which he can retreat when tired or stressed.
Your dog can avoid much of the fear and confusion caused by your reaction to problem behavior.
Since he can more easily adapt to staying in unfamiliar places as long as he has his familiar “security blanket” along, your pet can be included in family outings, instead of being left behind alone.

Purchasing a Crate

Many people will automatically buy a plastic crate when they first bring home their Lab. Although this may work for some pups, others may not like it because it is too confining and they feel cut off from the rest of the family when in it. Those with heavy chewers will also want to stay clear of plastic crates as many Labs have been known to chew their way out or ingest the plastic. Plastic crates are best when used during traveling or for short periods of time.

The most recommended crate is a wire crate with a removable plastic or metal floor. This is perfect for both puppy and adult dogs since it is less destructible and easier to clean. Also, the wire crates allow for more air flow as well as unobstructed view of the world around the Lab. If you are purchasing it for a small puppy, then you will want to keep in mind that your Lab pup will not always be that small. Take into consideration the adult size of your dog when purchasing your crate. Personally, we have used, and continue to use the Midwest LifeStages large wire crate.

This crate not only has a plastic floor that slides out for easy cleaning, but also comes with a wire divider for the crate. Why is this important? Well, the more room you give a pup, the greater the chance that it will go potty in the crate. Pups never want to soil where they sleep and therefore the crate should only be big enough for the pup to stand up and turn around. The divider will allow you to make the large crate as small as you need and increase the amount of space your Lab gets as it gets older and bigger. Lastly, the crate is collapsible (folds up) for easy transport. One crate – one cost!

Cost of a Crate

The cost of a crate can range from $ – $$$+ depending on the type and size of the crate. It is recommended that the largest crate needed be purchased and then sections of it blocked off during training in order to alleviate the cost of purchasing more than one as the pup gets bigger.

Cost of Not Buying a Crate

The cost of not using a crate can be a lot higher than $200 and may include:

Sofas
Chairs
Rugs
Walls
Shoes
Computer Components
Jewelry
Books
Remote Controls
Vet Bills – to remove any foreign object it may ingest

Your Lab’s Life – if it chews on any electric components, hazardous materials, or chokes on anything else it may be able to get in its mouth

Crate Training Your Labrador Part 2

Most people try to put the crate in the corner or out of eye sight due to its size or its ability to match the furniture. When crate training, the crate should be placed in the most centralize and highest traffic areas of the home. This will allow you to continue to interact with your Lab and not have it feel isolated or alone.

Preparing the Crate

Setting the crate up for your Lab is as important has the crate you choose. The pup should be as comfortable and has safe as possible while it is hanging out in its new den. Toys, treats, and bedding may be included but either needs to be checked for choking hazards. Since they are Labs and they are prone to chewing, toys and treats should be specifically for heavy chewers. Depending on your Labrador Retriever, the bedding may range from old towels to a $200 bed from an high end store. Please check all items for their “chew factor” before leaving your pup alone in a crate with them. We have learned a number of times that even those beds that look like they are tough, have no chance of survival when placed in a closed space with an aggressive chewer.

Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

The introduction of puppy and crate is the most crucial step on the training process. First perceptions are always the strongest with both humans and animals. Per the American Dog Trainers Network, the following steps should be taken during this introduction period:

Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.
In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)
You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, “Where’s the biscuit? It’s in your room.” Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy’s toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.
It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

Feeding Your Lab Meals in the Crate

Each owner has a preference on feeding in a crate. For those that must leave their Lab pups in the crate for longer periods of time, this may be an option. However, most families choose not to feed in the crate because it can become messy, it is difficult to keep the Labrador Retriever on a feeding schedule, or the owner may be training the dog using the “Nothing in Life is Free” principle. Feeding meals in the crate is based upon personal preferences.

A Note About Crating Puppies

If you are crate training a young puppy, please remember that they have limited control over eliminating. The younger the pup, the more frequently it will need to go to the bathroom. The age of the puppy denotes the amount of time they are able to crated. Puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated as they will need to go to the bathroom frequently. No pup should ever be allowed to eliminate in their crate. This defeats one of the more predominate uses of crate training and confuses the Lab. For most, the age and crating duration is as follows:

9-10 weeks: 30-60 minutes
11-14 weeks: 1-3 hours
15-16 weeks: 3-4 hours
17+ weeks: 4+ hours

Accidents in the Crate

Accidents will happen and if this happens in the crate, the Lab should never be scolded. If a mess occurs, promptly bring the pup outside to finish eliminating and return to clean the mess. Everything in the crate should be cleaned as microscopic particles of urine or feces can be on anything. Any residue or odor left behind will leave a scent or marking for your pup to use next time it needs to eliminate. Therefore, all bedding and the crate floor should be washed with a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature’s Miracle).

Crating Guidelines & Potential Problems

Collars are to be removed as they can get caught on the crate and pose a choking hazard.
Do not crate during extremely hot temperatures.
Make sure your Lab eliminates before entering the crate and as soon as it is released from the crate.
If your pup continues to eliminate in the crate, check that it does not have too much room – otherwise seek veterinarian assistance.
Never use the crate as a form of punishment.
Children should never play in or around the crate. This is a sanctuary for you dog and therefore it should be able to have this space to itself.
Never release a barking Lab from the crate. If you do so, the pup will be conditioned to believe that barking gets the end result it wants – to be let out of the crate. The pup should not bark and remain calm for at least 5 minutes before opening the crate door. If it is a younger pup and it is barking because it needs to eliminate, promptly open the crate door and lead the pup out on a leash to eliminate. After done, return the Lab directly to the crate. this will reinforce that barking is not appropriate in the crate unless it is for elimination only. Sure, the barking can cause you to get less sleep or become annoying but it will get better with time if you are consistent.
Do not use the crate if your Lab is vomiting or has diarrhea.
Do not use the crate for extended periods of time. You chose to have a dog and must take responsibility for providing social interaction, nurturing, support, exercise, and love.
Don’t abuse the crate!

The crate doesn’t work for all dogs. Some dogs will not tolerate it but most will come to love the crate and be lost without it. Success rates are much higher for puppies, than for “senior” dogs. We have been very successful in crate training and need only remove our Labs’ collars and say “Kennel Up”, and they head straight for their crates. It is important that the crate not be abused. Every dog needs a certain amount of exercise and should be allowed the opportunity to socialize daily with its human family.

Housebreaking Your Labrador Retriever Part 2

So now that you know what housebreaking is and the importance of scheduling, how do you get the pup to go outside? It is a simple process of awarding the pup for good behavior.

Most Lab owners follow a very simple routine when they take their pup outside: take the pup out on a leash directly to the spot you want it to eliminate, use a command to tell the pup to do its business such as Go Potty, do not play with the pup while outside for bathroom time, as the pup goes potty repeat the command over (this helps train the pup to go on command), treat and praise when the pup goes potty, do not return the pup to the house until 10 minutes have passed even if it has already eliminated (it may go potty again), and praise the pup when it comes back into the house.

Beyond the 2-hour schedule, pups will need to go to the bathroom:

When they wake up in the morning or after a nap
Before they go to sleep
After they play
Before and after they go on a car ride
When they get overly excited

If you are crate training your Labrador Retriever, you will want to make sure to keep the crate small enough for the pup to only be able to turn and sleep in. Extra room in the crate allows the pup an area to eliminate as they will not go to the bathroom where they sleep. Take the pup out to go potty before you crate your pup and after you let it out of the crate. If the pup cries while in the crate and you believe it needs to go to the bathroom, open the door, put the leash on it immediately, and take it outside right away.

Do not praise or play with your pup when taking it out of the crate or it will link crying and barking to getting released from the crate and this will make it more difficult to crate train. When the pup is done eliminating outside, bring it right back to the crate. This teaches the pup that crying or barking will not get any play time, love, praise, or cuddling and will just result in allowing it to go outside to do its business.

Housebreaking is not always an easy task but it doesn’t have to result in frustration and hair loss. With Labrador Retrievers, owners need to remain consistent and persistent in their training. Most owners become frustrated because they try something for a week or two and when it doesn’t work, they either give up or try something new. Unfortunately, this ends up confusing the Lab and the pup will be deemed un-trainable. When training fails, it is usually that the owner does not remain consistent with the training or gives up all together. This leads to an 80-pound dog that rules the roost and a very important bond between owner and Lab that is lost.

Those owners, such as me, that continue to remain persistent and consistent in training, can tell you that it is well worth the energy. My 2-year old Lab, Dakota, was housebroken by the time she was 12-weeks old. However, Cheyenne, my 1-year old full-blood sister to Dakota, was not fully housebroken until almost 6-months old. Why the difference? Although they both share the same genetic make up, they are two separate Labs with two distinct, and opposite, personalities. The point is that each Labrador Retriever is distinctly different however, as long as you remain consistent and persistent in their training, even those, like Cheyenne, who are not as easily trainable as other Labs can be training. Your Lab would never give up on you so never give up on your Lab!

What are Canine Prong Collars

A GENERAL INTRODUCTION TO THE PRONG COLLAR The best Labrador Retriever is a well trained dog. Unfortunately, Labs usually don’t enter a family already fully trained. One of the most frequent training complaints is the ability for a Lab to drag its owner down the block in less than 20 seconds. It is for that reason that Lab owners seek out methods of controlling their dogs while on walks or during training session. One such method is the use of the Prong collar.

What Is A Prong Collar?

A Prong collar (also called pinch collar) is a series of chain links with open ends turned towards the dog’s neck so that, when the collar is tightened, it pinches the naturally loose skin around the dog’s neck. When properly adjusted and used, it startles the dog and gives a sharp correction, but it is very difficult if not impossible to actually puncture the skin. And while it looks painful, it’s actually less harmful to the dog than a slip or choke collar. Opponents argue that pain is never a good default way in which to train animals.

Some dogs are nearly oblivious to leash corrections of any kind, but the prong collar might make such dogs pay more attention than milder collar types. The advantage of the prong collar over the choke collar is that the circumference is limited so that it is impossible to compress the animal’s throat. Another advantage is that any pressure on the dog’s neck is spread out over a larger area than with most buckle collars, and with all choke chains.

Study of Prong Collars in Germany

(Information about study taken from an Anne Marie Silverton Seminar)

100 dogs were in the study. 50 used choke and 50 used prong.
The dogs were studied for their entire lives. As dogs died, autopsies were performed.
Of the 50 which had chokes, 48 had injuries to the neck, trachea, or back. 2 of those were determined to be genetic. The other 46 were caused by trauma.
Of the 50 which had prongs, 2 had injuries in the neck area, 1 was determined to be genetic. 1 was caused by trauma.

Type of Prong Collars

Swivel – prevents chain from getting twisted and owner must release dog by manually separating the links of the collar.

Quick Release – has a swivel to prevent chain from getting twisted and comes with a snap or special link to quickly release dog.

When should a Prong Collar be used?

A Prong collar should be used when milder training collars have not worked and your Lab is still not listening to commands. These other training collars include the flat collar, martingale collar, halter collar, or harness. Each of these training collars is less forceful and may be suitable for most owners and their Labs. For the most stubborn puller or for those Labs that have “selective hearing” when giving commands, the Prong collar can be very useful. Please use the mildest collar that gives you the results you want before trying a Prong collar.

Who should use a Prong Collar?

Any dog owner that has a stubborn Lab that need a more forceful training method. Only adults should use this type of training collar as there are some rules that a child may have difficultly following. Training must remain consistent and the alpha individual in the family should be the one to use this training method.

Please note: The pup should be at least 6 months in age before using a Prong collar for training due to development growth and age. This should not be used on young puppies.

Correct Use of a Prong Collar

Most people are misguided in the use of the Prong collar and how it should be worn. A majority of owners will secure the Prong collar loosely under the flat collar of the dog and believe this is the best fitting. Unfortunately, they are very wrong and can cause serious tracheal and neck problems for their Labs. Here are the facts:

Prong collars are ordered by weight – Extra Heavy; Heavy; Light; etc. They all come in a standard length which is adjusted to fit the neck of the dog by removing or adding links to the collar.
Prong collars are meant to be put on and taken off before and after daily training sessions. They should never be left on the Lab all the time. That is what the flat collar is meant for.
A snug fit is mandatory! Enough links need to be removed so that the collar fits snug.
Positioning of the Prong collar is crucial. The collar should sit right behind the ears and up under the jaw. Not down at the shoulders.
Rings on the Prong collar should be positioned ideally for training. For most, the rings (that you attach your leash to) should be towards the top right of the Lab’s neck as to allow the trainer to be standing to the Lab’s right for training.
Links should always remain under the dog’s chin for more effective training.
Attach the leash to the dead-ring for normal dog training. The dead-ring is when the trainer attaches the leash to both the swivel ring and the stationary ring. This will allow the Prong collar to remain the same size when training and provide less force.
Attach leash to the live-ring for more stubborn dogs. The live ring is the swivel ring alone and allows the Prong collar to tighten further on the Lab when training. Do not use the live-ring method of training unless you have first tried the dead-ring method.
The Prong collar should be placed on the Lab 20 minutes before training and it should be removed 20 minutes after the training has been completed. This will allow the Lab to become accustomed to the collar and not directly link the correction during the training with the collar.

Animal Cruelty

The Prong collar itself is not a cruel device to use on any dog, so long as it is used properly during training. As with anything, there are opportunities for any training method to be used in a cruel and inhumane fashion. Prong collars should never be used for punishment after the Lab has done something wrong. The collar should only be worn when the owner is actively training the Lab. If left on, the collar can hurt the Lab if it were to become tangled or caught on something. Prong collars are used solely for correction during training and should not be used in any other way. If you suspect someone of purposefully using the Prong collar to hurt their dog, please contact your local officials immediately.

Just because an owner chooses to use a Prong collar does not mean he or she has a bad dog. Both of our lovable Labs use the collar during their daily walks, as they tend to pull hard, and it is used during our more rigorous training sessions. When used properly, the Prong collar can make even the most energetic and stubborn Lab become well mannered and easy to handle.

If you are unsure as to what training collar may be best suited for your pup, please contact a local Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT).